The Problem with Quito

Posted on 18. Dec, 2011 by Steph in Destinations, South America

Quito is a pretty city. Like really, really pretty:

It’s over 500 years old, built by conquistadors on the site of an old Inca City. The huge old town is full of elegant buildings and elaborate churches built by different orders of missionaries. It was the very first city to be designated an UNESCO World Heritage Site, that’s how important and striking it is.

So what’s the problem?

Quito is not a safe city. From the moment you pick up your guidebook until you finally catch a bus out of town you are constantly reminded of this. As a result it’s difficult to enjoy Quito because it’s difficult to relax.

It’s weird when a place looks so pretty, yet feels so uneasy. Like El Panecillo, the hill in the very center of Quito, topped with the Virgin Mary. If you want to visit you must take a cab: even in broad daylight hikers will be robbed blind. Yes, the neighborhood in the shadow of Mary is filled with thieves and criminals. Ironic.

The presumably safe haven of our hostel is buzzing with stories. Someone got their camera nicked. Another was mugged down at the end of the street, 100 meters from the hostel. Another person went for a walk in a bad area and was threatened with a machete (!). Most of these stories are second or third hand but I know even bloggers who have been cleaned out in Quito.

Paired with these stories are constant warnings: don’t carry any valuables, don’t go out at night alone, don’t visit certain areas even in daylight. It’s dizzying and paranoia inducing. After coming out of Colombia, where we barely worried about safety at all, it felt strange to feel so vulnerable.

The effect is obvious: people are afraid. Few leave the hostel after dark, and definitely never alone. People seem to pass through as quickly as possible. During our week and a half there we saw dozens of people come in and out, barely pausing to look around.

Our visit happened to coincide with the annual Quito Festival: a massive, week-long, city wide party celebrating over 500 years of history. There were parades, music and carousing. One night a major community dance party broke out down the street from our hostel (the same corner where someone had been robbed earlier in the week). A few of us brave souls ventured out and were warmly embraced by the locals. We danced for hours, shouting “Viva Quito!” when the music stopped. It was perfect.

Still, even in the festive crowd, there were issues. Two little boys, maybe six years old, running from place to place, sitting down next to foreigners and artlessly reaching for their pockets. Little pick-pockets, probably just learning their trade. They didn’t catch any of us, and probably went home empty handed but it was still pretty depressing: a whole new generation of thieves being raise to target visitors.

That’s the real shame: Quito’s scary reputation is scaring people away. Although the majority of people are awesome, welcoming and good, the nasty and violent are making their voices heard far more clearly.

In the end we escaped from Quito unscathed. Nothing was stolen, nobody menaced us. Partially this was because we took precautions, and partially it was luck (if I make it out of South America without being robbed at least once it will be an impressive feat I’m told). And although we never felt truly comfortable in our week and a half there, I still think it’s a pretty city. More than that: it’s vibrant and cool, and something we never would have experienced if we’d let fear rule us.

In my mind at least, it’s worth the risk.

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Tags: blogsherpa, Ecuador, Quito, safety

32 Responses to “The Problem with Quito”

ayngelina
18. Dec, 2011
I spent three months in Ecuador, I would have stayed longer but my visa ran out. As much as I adore Ecuador I am not a fan of Quito either. My sister got robbed her first day visiting me in broad daylight right outside our hostel.
But the rest of Ecuador is so much better. And Cuenca is 10 times prettier
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  Thanks! I am already loving the rest of the country and can’t wait for Cuenca.
  Reply to this comment
- Paul Kron
  23. Dec, 2011
  The charm of Quito used to be how safe it was. It was Colombia that was meant to be so dangerous at the time (90′s). It was so bad all my friends in Ecuador said don’t go, you will be robbed and murdered and lose a kidney. When I got to Colombia it was fantastic but the people were shocked I had come from Ecuador and managed to escape with my life, my money and my kidneys. It’s a long tradition to play up the danger!
  Reply to this comment
  - Steph
    10. Jan, 2012
    It’s funny though- All the ecuadorians STILL say bad things about Colombia- quite a rivalry there!
    Reply to this comment
Peggy McPartland
18. Dec, 2011
So sad to hear. I was planning to head to Quito for a few weeks after the first of the year. Maybe I’ll head for Cuenca instead.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  oh no it’s still worth visiting for sure! You just have to be cautious.
  Reply to this comment
Miguel
18. Dec, 2011
I heard it was bad… but that bad??… anyway i’m glad you manged to confront the “fear” and make it out alive. I geuss the whole concept of what you can and can’t do in a city changes radically on the planet. We’ll be making it over there sometime soon next year. Hopefully, we’ll be lucky and not find any trouble too.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  It’s definitely still worth a visit for sure!
  Reply to this comment
Courtney
18. Dec, 2011
I spent 2 week in Quito alone in 2007 and felt/saw none of this. I believe the “new” area of town (touristy area) was much more dangerous, I really didn’t take any extra precautions then I do elsewhere. I walked around with my ipod/camera/money alone all day. Sad to hear this as I loved the city.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  Hmm interesting, i wonder if there’s been a big change in the past couple years.
  Reply to this comment
Tom Bartel
18. Dec, 2011
I lived in Quito for 8 months and was robbed 5 times. Cops are completely corrupt and incompetent and the government doesn’t care at all about tourism. Skip it and go to Chile, Colombia and Peru. All those are great.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  Yikes! I really am enjoying the rest of Ecuador though- haven’t felt nearly so threatened anywhere else.
  Reply to this comment
Ali
19. Dec, 2011
I spent a week in Quito last year for a Spanish class and lived with a family. I never felt unsafe at all, though I was warned by the school and the family to be aware of my belongings and never carry credit cards, large amounts of cash, or anything else valuable. So my credit cards stayed in the apartment when I went to class. Then I had 2 fraudulent charges on a credit card I only have for emergencies, including one for an $1800 plane ticket. Possibly someone I was living with that week who could’ve easily gotten my credit card info? Who knows. At least I didn’t have to pay for those charges.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  Huh, that’s bizarre.
  Reply to this comment
Amanda
19. Dec, 2011
I certainly looks very pretty. But it’s sad to hear that it’s got such an ugly underbelly.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  Indeed. Luckily the rest of Ecuador has been grand!
  Reply to this comment
Jade Johnston - OurOyster.com
19. Dec, 2011
Thats a shame that you can not let your guard down! it would definitely change your impresions of a place
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  Yeah it can be exhausting after awhile! I t was a releif to get to Banos which is so much more relaxed.
  Reply to this comment
Heather
19. Dec, 2011
It such a gorgeous town too! But that seems to be the case with many of the capital or major cities whatever the country. Sigh.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  Yeah, it’s a very cool place- just a shame about the crime.
  Reply to this comment
Nicki
19. Dec, 2011
That’s too bad to hear you weren’t able to enjoy the festivales de quito! It’s such an awesome time in the city! I spent about 4 months living there in 2004 and it was certainly a mix. My bag was slashed my very first week there, but otherwise I made out ok. Our professors told us to watch out in “gringolandia” where all the hostels and tourists are, but in the rest of the city things were ok. Though I never had any issues at night, I don’t think I would have ever gone out alone. If you get the chance, be sure to head out east towards Tena and the rain forest! It’s beautiful!
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  Oh we did enjoy it pretty well- most people were super nice and welcoming!
  Reply to this comment
DTravelsRound
19. Dec, 2011
You would never think that Quito is dangerous in looking at your photos. I’m glad you escaped unscathed, but sorry you weren’t able to experience the city more. It looks absolutely beautiful!
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  22. Dec, 2011
  It was super pretty- when it wasn’t raining!
  Reply to this comment
Karen
23. Dec, 2011
I’m so glad I didn’t do any research before I went to Quito, otherwise I would never have gone there! I had a great time, took Spanish lessons for a couple of weeks and stayed with a lovely family. Having said that, because I didn’t do any research I stupidly tried to walk up El Panecillo and, yup, got robbed at knifepoint. Fun! I did manage to carry $1500 dollars from an ATM to a travel agents to pay for my Galapagos cruise though! I would still recommend going, but definitely do your research on the do’s and don’ts.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  10. Jan, 2012
  Yeah I definitely didn’t intend to discourage people from going- I think it’s much safer if you are just aware of what you are up against.
  Reply to this comment
Tawny @ Captain and Clark
23. Dec, 2011
We were just there in September and heard so many horror stories of people getting robbed at gun point. One of the friends we made told us about getting hit over the head with a blunt object and waking up bleeding in the middle of the street.
We played it safe while there and left most of our possessions locked up in our room and carried a dummy wallet with us. We also took in all the advice we could and didn’t walk around anytime after dark.
Quito truly beautiful and steeped in history, you’ve just got to be alert and cautious.
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  10. Jan, 2012
  Yikes! that’s crazy. I agree- it’s a gorgeous place you just need to be aware.
  Reply to this comment
Runaway Brit
24. Dec, 2011
I have heard so many stories about Ecuador, Quito in particular, while I have been travelling around South America. It seems that everybody knows somebody who has been robbed there.
I have had to skip Ecuador because we were meeting friends in Colombia before Christmas but seems like it might not be such a bad thing after all. I’ll go there one day for sure but maybe they’ll have followed Colombia’s lead and cleaned up their act by then!!
Reply to this comment
- Steph
  10. Jan, 2012
  I actually really liked the rest of Ecuador but yeah, it has a ways to go!
  Reply to this comment
Osvaldo
22. Mar, 2012
Quito is dangerous, Medellins is dangerous, Panama City is dangerous, the whole world is dangerous. People are used to hear something and to magnify things, sadly.
If people don’t follow the basic rule (don’t look like a tourist) the world is going to be an ugly place
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