The Prettiest Castle in Japan… That I Never Saw
Posted on 12. Jul, 2011 by Steph in Asia, Destinations, Philosophy
Japan is full of stunning castles, and Himeji-jo is supposed to be the most beautiful of them all. A beautiful UNESCO World Heritage site, it has survived the earthquakes and bombings that decimated much of it’s competition. It is nicknamed the “White Heron Castle” because it’s gleaming white towers resemble a bird taking flight. It’s absolutely stunning.
Or so I’ve heard, I never actually got to see it.
First, a confession: Sometimes I write a blog post in my head while or before an event happens. I imagine how things are going to play out and start narrating. It’s a blogger disease, I can’t turn it off. Unfortunately this is almost always a guarantee things are going to fall apart.
This was the case when I took the train from Kyoto to Hiroshima last September. I was perusing the battered old Lonely Planet a friend had given me right before I left, looking up the train stops ahead. One of the upcoming stops, Himeji was known for having the most beautiful castle in all of Japan. In the picture it was an elegant tower of white walls and green roofs- so different from European castles, but still so regal.
How cool would it be if I just jumped off the train and went to check it out? I’m not usually that impulsive, but it WAS the best castle ever after all. Wouldn’t that make a great blog post, something about taking chances, following your whims etc etc? My mind was made up.
At the station I paid a hefty 600 yen to store my backpack in a locker. I didn’t care, in my head I could already picture the gorgeous photo of the cast I would use to headline my post. Hooray impulsiveness!
I may have gotten a little ahead of myself. After a sweaty 20 minute walk to the castle grounds I gazed up expectantly…
On a good day, Himeji looks like this:
What I saw was this:

Closed. For restoration. Until 2015. Nothing to see here. Well, that’s what I get for using an out of date guidebook. Damn.
On my long walk back to the station I silently rewrote my blog post. I don’t know what the message is this time. I guess that in travel sometimes things work out, and sometime they suck. You win some days and you lose others, but it is always worth it to take that chance.








Adrienne @Shenventure
12. Jul, 2011
I wanted to see Himeji-jo too when I went to Japan, but then found out like you did that it’s closed for restoration. Sucks =(
Steph
12. Jul, 2011
Hope you found out before you got off the train at least!
Eurotrip Tips
12. Jul, 2011
Very well crafted article, I didn’t that one coming – and neither did you, apparently. That sucks no matter what attraction you are visiting, but it does suck even more when you’ve made a special trip for it.
Steph
12. Jul, 2011
Ha yeah, it was just frustrating. It was a really HOT day and ended up being such a waste of time.
Amanda
12. Jul, 2011
Oh no!! How disappointing.
I often do the same thing as you — write a blog post in my head before even having an experience. Or sometimes I frame a photo in my mind before even seeing the spot I want to take a picture of. Then, of course, the experience is nothing like I expected, and my camera battery dies before I get that perfect shot.
Such is life!
Steph
12. Jul, 2011
Yeah, I try not to force my life into the shape of my blog ideas anymore, but sometimes i can’t help it!
Justin Morris
12. Jul, 2011
Oh man when this happens it is THE WORST. I remember visiting the Eiffel Tower once only to see it mostly covered in grey curtains due to repainting of the entire tower that year. Was a total downer that day for sure.
Steph
12. Jul, 2011
Bummer!
Scott - Quirky Travel Guy
12. Jul, 2011
Wow, stunning is the word. Too bad it’s off limits for so long! I’m jealous, I wish I had the motivation to write posts in advance
Steph
12. Jul, 2011
It’s good motivation to go back at least! And I only do the post writing in my head- not AS productive as typing actual words.
Andrew - The Unframed World
12. Jul, 2011
You should check out Kumamoto Castle in Kyushu. Totally worth it.
Steph
12. Jul, 2011
next time!
Sally
13. Jul, 2011
As I was reading along, I was like, “Oh no, I hope she didn’t go because it’s under… oh yeah. Guess she found that out.”
Sorry you didn’t get to see it. I lived only about an hour away from there & went a few times. It is a lovely castle, but the steps are crazy-hard to walk up (built purposely difficult to climb up so as to prevent samurai invasion). So, if it helps, you probably saved yourself a lot of muscle pain!
Toni
13. Jul, 2011
I feel your pain! I want to Japan last year and really wanted to see the main temple of Asakusa but all I got was a big dollop of scaffolding and tarpaulin cover – fail!
yogini
13. Jul, 2011
I really want to visit japan and see this place
your blog is lovely (:
Nomadic Samuel
13. Jul, 2011
Oh no! How disappointing. One Buddhist Monastery I visited in Shangrila, China was largely under construction and many areas were off limits. Unfortunately, they had no problem charging me full admission & conveniently forgetting to leave out those details
I suppose one the project is completed it will look even more spectacular but it’s too bad you didn’t get a chance to go when you wanted.
Katrin
13. Jul, 2011
ouch. but at least you followed your impulse and went to see it – otherwise you would probably be thinking you missed *the* chance to see the castle (and it does look absolutely stunning! I would’ve hopped on the bus aswell
)
Erin
13. Jul, 2011
How disappointing! I am taking that off our list for our trip to Japan next month. I still think it’s very cool that you got off the train on a whim though. That kind of spontaneity often leads to great things. It’s just a shame it didn’t in this case.
carolinam
13. Jul, 2011
I went there last year before they covered it. You could have checked Himeji City website, http://www.city.himeji.lg.jp/s60/2851146/_21909/siro-weekly-photo.html , which has an daily update of the restorations…
In Himeji you could visit the Hygo Prefectural Museum of History that contains the castle’s history. And you get to try the huge and heavy kimono that monarchy used to wear.
Also, Engyoji Shosha-zan, a very peaceful place.
Next time, then.
Global Basecamps Ali
13. Jul, 2011
Oh no! How disappointing. But like you said you have good travel days and bad ones. Would love to go to Japan someday and see this, but I guess I will have to wait till 2015!
Alouise
13. Jul, 2011
Aww that sucks the castle was under restoration. That happened with me in Venice. I guess it just means you have a reason to go back to Japan.
Audrey
13. Jul, 2011
Oh no, that’s too bad! I remember walking up to a palace in Germany once, all excited to see the interior, and it turned out it was closed for the day!!!
Marsha
13. Jul, 2011
Haha! Ya gotta have an accurate and up-to-date guidebook. Reminds me of a trip to San Francisco when I woke up at the butt-crack of dawn on the day I was supposed to leave so I could find where Janis Joplin used to live in Haight-Ashbury. I found the house alright, but there was no sort of marker denoting that Janis ever lived there. I took a self-portrait in front of the house anyway, just in case. Turns out it was the wrong house! My guidebook had printed the wrong address and Janis’ former residence was really 5 houses away and I missed it. So now I have a picture of myself in front of a totally random person’s home. Still makes me laugh when I think about it!
Claire
14. Jul, 2011
First of all, this is hilarious. Second of all, I also write the post in my head before it happens. Or, I wake up in the middle of the night and write it all in my head and then cannot sleep because then I must edit it all……..still in my head!
Vi
19. Jul, 2011
It sad you didn’t see the castle. I agree what is most beautiful castle in Japan. At least it was prettiest I saw.
kyushudan
11. Aug, 2011
Great stuff. Well, not the fact that you saw scaffolding. That kinda sucked.
Dennis
11. Nov, 2011
Sorry that had to happen to you.
I think it closed sometime last year for restoration.
I was lucky to see it in 2003. Awesome place to see.