Confession: A Hoi An Shopping Spree

Posted on 15. Feb, 2011 by in Asia, Destinations

When I was at home, saving all my pennies, one of the first things I had to ruthlessly cut out was shopping. Particularly shopping for clothes- which I had to admit became a bit of an unhealthy hobby for me when I realized I had a closet full of Forever 21 dresses and STILL thought I had nothing to wear on Saturday night.

Oh boy times have changed. Since I started my new backpacker life my clothing options have plummeted dramatically. Every morning I have the luxury of choosing between about 7 shirts, a pair of pants, a shirt and shorts. I threw out my flats a couple months ago to save room, so now it’s flip flops almost every day. Instead of agonizing over what to wear on Saturday night I can barely be bothered to put on make-up (maybe mascara if I have a BIG night planned). It’s a good day when I manage to brush my hair instead of just tying it up in a ponytail.

It sounds kind of depressing but it’s not. It’s not particularly liberating either, it just kind of is. It was a lot easier to get used to then I expected and the only real downside seems to be that I’m wearing the same outfit in every damn photo:

However, it turns out that I didn’t completely extinguish my girly girl shopping demon. It as just sleeping and when I arrived in Hoi An, city of 400 tailors, it woke up. With a vengeance.

Hoi An is this truly gorgeous historic city in Central Vietnam. The entire downtown is a Unesco World Heritage site and it’s great to just walk down the narrow streets and watch the river light up at night. It’s also a very touristy city and there is a reason: Hoi An is THE place to come to buy cheap, hand tailored clothes.

When I say hand tailored I mean that there is literally no piece of clothing that you can’t have made here. These tailors can reproduce just about anything with just a picture as a guide. Cheaply too: a dress typically costs $20-$40, a pair of pants $30. You can buy an entire, hand tailored suit for under $200. It’s kind of amazing. You can’t walk down the street without tripping over a dozen tailors displaying beautiful samples of silk dresses and wool jackets (of course some of the tailors are more legitimate then others, which I will get to in my next post).

I started out conservativly. I have been wanting a cheongsam (link) since I first saw them in Shanghai, so I was able to commision one in midnight blue for $19. That was fun. Then I decided to have another tailor copy a pair of North Face pants that I have been wearing to death. And maybe a nice silk dress. Maybe two. So what if I have nowhere to wear them- surely I’ll have some weddings to go to sometime in the next couple years right?

As it turns out my imagination far exceeds my wallet.Before I knew it I’d ordered a dozen pieces and spent almost $300. Now when I close my eyes all I can see is dresses. I dream about designing an entire closet full of one of a kind clothes. Mike is looking at me like he has no idea what heppened to his chill, low maintance girlfriend. Not that he’s one to talk… he bought an entire suit and has actually spent more money than I have!

Now for a brief fashion show interlude:

Blue cheongsam dress- $19

Casual dress $25, necklace $5

My fave: white cotton shirt $13, copycat REI pants $35, necklace $5

Jacket $19

Floor length silk dress $50, Suit, shirt and tie $200. The picture is blurry because we asked the maid to take it.

Honestly, I’ve been pretty meager with my souvenir shopping up to this point, so I really don’t feel too guilty. Aside from a couple of trinkets in Japan and China, I have bought very little for myself. I’ve been stocking up on gifts for my family here as well. Tomorrow I will mail all of my beautiful clothes home and go back to being my normal, grungy self… for now.

Coming up next time: Useful tips for your own Hoi An shopping spree!

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59 Responses to “Confession: A Hoi An Shopping Spree”

  1. Sheila

    15. Feb, 2011

    Great deals on the clothes. I love the pattern and style on your silk dress. I might have to stay away from Hoi An or risk spending a ton of money there.

    Reply to this comment
  2. Claire

    15. Feb, 2011

    I love clothes shopping, but my real weakness is shoes. After travelling about four months, unfortunately my spree hit in a far more expensive location – Spain. But I love my shoes and wear them all the time… now, anyway. Even if I did have to carry them for a month or so with no real opportunity to wear them.

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      Ooo, everyone has their vices I guess. I mailed all my stuff home which means ill have lots of surprises waiting for me!

      Reply to this comment
  3. Theresa

    15. Feb, 2011

    I have a jacket in the exact same style but in a green tweed that I got in Hoi An! I get compliments on it all the time back here in the U.S. Love the dress as well.

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      I bet you soooo many people have this jacket. It was for sale in literally every shop.

      Reply to this comment
  4. mercedes

    15. Feb, 2011

    I love all your new buys, but I ESPECIALLY love that casual dress! It is so cute I could die!

    Oh Vietnam. Is there anything you don’t have?!

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      thanks! As far as I can tell the only thing Vietnam is missing is mexican food.

      Reply to this comment
  5. Sarah

    15. Feb, 2011

    OOh I love all of your choices, especially that white shirt :)

    I’m so excited to go to Hoi An. I’ve started putting together some ideas of things I want. This could get expensive…

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      the white shirt is my fave too! maybe just cause i like showing off my tan. Good thinking on planning ahead, i think it will ultimately keep your costs down.

      Reply to this comment
  6. Sheryll

    15. Feb, 2011

    This is a dream to me. A tailor to custom make clothes for you?! and so inexpensive. I always have problems finding clothes that fit me perfectly and end up having to get them altered anyways. Clothes shopping is and will always be a weakness for me, so I know if I ever get to Vietnam I’m going to have a field day.

    Ps. that jacket and silk dress are to die for!

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      thanks! It’s so awesome to buy clothes and know that they will fit perfectly the first time.

      Reply to this comment
  7. Christine

    15. Feb, 2011

    Love the long silk dress! How fun!

    Reply to this comment
  8. Rebecca

    15. Feb, 2011

    As someone who HATES shopping (horrors, I know!) this place actually sounds like heaven as I could pick the style, fabric and color and have it fit custom made.

    Vietnam has never really been on my radar, but maybe it will be, if just for the shopping!

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      Yeah, it’s like shopping without any of the bullshit, because you can get exactly what you want. One of many reasons to check out Vietnam!

      Reply to this comment
  9. I <3 your new clothes!!! I had a bunch of stuff made for me in Thailand.

    Reply to this comment
  10. Claire

    15. Feb, 2011

    Very cute choices! I can relate to the minimal wardrobe-I used to have “going out” flip-flops. Which were the ones that just happened to be less dusty and dirty than the others. ha.

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      ha- i dont even have those. I have to choose between my regular flip flops and sneakers!

      Reply to this comment
  11. Ali

    15. Feb, 2011

    I love the jacket and floor length dress!! When I lived in China I used to love getting things made. The tailors could copy just about anything. Great post!

    Reply to this comment
  12. Allison

    15. Feb, 2011

    Beautiful!! Makes me want to save up for a trip to Vietnam just to get some new clothes :) (not to mention see the beautiful scenery)

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      And shipping home turned out to be only $30, so not too bad a deal either.

      Reply to this comment
  13. Theodora

    15. Feb, 2011

    Hoi An’s definitely a great place to shop. And they make great trousers, too, if you don’t want to have your entire wardrobe Asian themed.

    Reply to this comment
  14. valerie

    15. Feb, 2011

    good on ya for finally spoiling yourself, i imagine it can be tough living on pennies a day as a fulltime RTWer, its nice to splurge once in a while. btw my dad totally had suits tailored while he was in vietnam too. its just the thing to do there i guess (as a visitor)

    Reply to this comment
  15. Jaime

    15. Feb, 2011

    Wow I had never heard of this place or that they did all this. I love this post for some reason it reminds of an episode of Project Runway. I think its the pictures that hit the spot. I picture you working it and wlaking them up and down the lil balcony there. I have dreamed of having clothes designed just for me. I may have to do just this when I am over there. I know you were a fan of PR so I am sure you understand where I am coming from.

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      16. Feb, 2011

      HA, I was thinking about Project Runway while I was there. They are always complaining on that show about having such little time, yet these ladies can whip up a whole outfit even quicker! Amateurs.

      Reply to this comment
  16. Rebecca

    16. Feb, 2011

    LOVE all your new outfits! I got stuff made for the first time when I was just in Saigon for work in December. Quite addictive!

    Reply to this comment
  17. Verity

    16. Feb, 2011

    These clothes are fantastic! I can imagine I would go pretty shopping nuts if I ever visited there. I particularly love the asymmetrical jacket you bought. So cool!

    Reply to this comment
  18. Geoff

    16. Feb, 2011

    $200 for a suit? When I was there, I got my silk suit made up for less than 50, and it was my last day in town, so I asked at about 9pm and got it before 7am the next morning. And it’s awesome quality!

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      16. Feb, 2011

      It really depends on where you go there were definitely suits available for less money. Mike shopped around quite a bit, compared fabrics and workmanship and ultimately went with what felt right. No qualms about the price because it’s an investment!

      Reply to this comment
  19. Audrey

    16. Feb, 2011

    Same thing happened to us on our visit. Next thing we know, we’ve got a whole box full of clothes to ship. My mother said the box was held together with tape by the time it arrived three months later. Now I wish I had more occasions to actually wear the fun clothes!

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      haha yeah, I was thinking that now all I need is a fancier life!

      Reply to this comment
  20. Jeremy

    16. Feb, 2011

    It is scary how fun it is to buy custom clothes, and I HATE clothes shopping. What shop did you go to in Hoi An? I went to Yaly Couture (the very nice expensive one) and got a custom suit and 3 shirts with shipping back home for $250 total.

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      I went to B’Lan (where Mike got his suit) and Miss Forget Me Not. Both awesome. Wrote some reviews that are going up today.

      Reply to this comment
  21. Elise

    16. Feb, 2011

    How GOOD is Hoi An for the shopping?!?! When we were there I didn’t buy a thing, but we plan on stopping through there on our way back to home and then I will let myself go wild! I’m getting shoes, dresses-everything made! Anthony is even considering getting his suit made there for our wedding! So good to see you went a little crazy with clothes! The maxi dress looks great!

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      Thanks! I wish I was heading home sometime soon so I could actually enjoy all those clothes I bought!

      Reply to this comment
  22. ehalvey

    16. Feb, 2011

    I need that jacket and floor length silk dress! You have a great eye :)

    Reply to this comment
  23. Nicki

    16. Feb, 2011

    My husband and I did the exact same thing when we went to Hoi An! So much fun, and SO addicting!! :-)

    Reply to this comment
  24. Cailin

    16. Feb, 2011

    OMG I love it all and must go there right now! haha
    I love love love the dress with the black top and orange pattern bottom with the matching necklace and the jacket! OMG
    lucky girl you, money well spent! hopefully there is room in your pack for it! haha
    Oh and Mike is looking quite spiffy himself! :)

    Reply to this comment
  25. Chris

    16. Feb, 2011

    Suit, shirt AND tie for $200???

    Sign me up!

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      I don’t know a lot about menswear but I know that’s a sweet deal.

      Reply to this comment
  26. Love the jacket for only $19! I have been reading about people getting tailored clothes from SEA for YEARS now. I want. WANT! :)

    Reply to this comment
  27. Marsha

    17. Feb, 2011

    The jacket is SLAMMIN’!! For $19??? My inner fashionista/bargain shopper just gave you a high five from across the miles!!

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      Yeah- pretty sweet! I love jackets too, good to have a new one for the collection.

      Reply to this comment
  28. Connie

    17. Feb, 2011

    The blue cheongsam is gorgeous on you! LOVE the color! I too went a little shopping crazy in Hoi An. Here’s my post if you’re interested in my purchases: http://connvoyage.blogspot.com/2010/11/hoi-the-town-that-tailors-to-you.html

    Reply to this comment
    • Steph

      17. Feb, 2011

      Thanks so much! It was the first thing I ordered and I was really please. Opened the flood gates I think…

      Reply to this comment
  29. Amanda

    17. Feb, 2011

    I love the jacket, and would probably fight you for that silk dress! Beautiful!

    I think the splurge looks like it was totally worth it! And you absolutely cannot beat those prices for hand-tailored, one-of-a-kind clothes like that.

    Reply to this comment
  30. Rease

    17. Feb, 2011

    This sounds disastrously dangerous! I hate shopping but part of why is I hate overpriced stuff that doesn’t fit perfectly- two problems that are not issues there, clearly.
    I love all the stuff, the jacket is great!

    Reply to this comment
  31. Andrea

    03. Mar, 2011

    I love your new clothes!!! Especially the jacket and first blue dress. Gah! Love it!!!

    Reply to this comment

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  1. The Darker Side of the Tailors of Hoi An | Art of Backpacking: Backpacking Independent International Traveler - April 2, 2011

    [...] new here, you might want to subscribe to the RSS feed for updates on this topic.Hoi An, Vietnam is a shopper’s paradise. From all over Southeast Asia westerners flock to the historic old town to have clothing made at [...]

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