Tokyo is Too Much

Posted on 28. Sep, 2010 by Steph in Asia, Destinations

I spent the entire day on Monday sprawled on my friend Anna’s futon in the tiny town of Kakegawa. I didn’t see a single new thing or have any new cultural experiences, just watched Project Runway and uploaded pictures. It was heavenly.

I suspect it’s a bit early on to be experiencing burnout, but after 3 days of intense sightseeing in the overwhelming city of Tokyo, I needed a break. I can try to blame it on jet lag or on the rain, or the fact that I’m just not used to full-time travel yet. It was all of those things, but even on a good day I think I would find Tokyo to be too much.

Tokyo is Big

Like really, really big. Population wise Tokyo is the largest metropolitan area in the world, with 32 million people spread out around it. That is a LOT of people, and it seems to have dealt with this massive population not just by sprawling outwards but by building upwards.

The true enormousness of Tokyo was really driven home during our visit to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. If you are looking for a good view of Tokyo I definitely recommend taking the (free) elevator to the 45^th floor of this massive building. On a good day you can see Mount Fuji, although the weather has not been on my side this week. Instead, Tokyo’s gray high rises sprawled as far as the eye could see in every direction.

Tokyo is Busy

There may be some quiet parts of Tokyo, but I never saw them. Instead people rushed about frenetically down every street and in every shop. The train stations in Tokyo are an amazing lesson in crowd control, as hundreds of thousands of people pass each other by on their way around the city. The giant crosswalk at Shibuya station is maybe the best place to watch thousands of people cross the street. It’s 30 seconds in a kind of organized chaos. It’s impressive, if intimidating.

The bustling young Edokko (that’s Tokyo-ites) can be seen up close on Sunday mornings in Harajuku. If you are like me you’ve probably only heard of Harajuku via Gwen Stefani, but it’s actually a famously outlandish shopping area in Tokyo. On the morning I visited it was crammed full of twenty-something Japanese women, some dressed stylishly, some flamboyantly. Walking down the main street was exciting, but slightly claustrophobic.

Tokyo is Overstimulating

The crowds and the sheer size of Tokyo I could probably have handled, if it weren’t for the completely overwhelming amount of noise, flashing lights and activity happening every single second of the day. You know that episode of The Simpsons where the family goes to Japan and has a seizure every time they turn on the television? I totally get this now.

This is particularly true at night, when the major downtown areas are awash in fluorescent glow. It’s kind of beautiful, in the way flashing Christmas lights are beautiful. Except it’s not Christmas, it’s Saturday night and the entire city is alive with electricity.

And people yelling. In a bizarre marketing tactic I don’t quite get, major stores station hearty lunged salespeople outside their doors to yell out the days electronics specials on repeat. This sound mixes in with the blaring omnipresent music and the hard clangs of the pachinko parlors to create a deafening cacophony. Coupled with the lights, the signs, the people, it’s all just so much MUCH.

After a little while my brain kind of fizzled out as I blindly let Anna lead me through the city. A long sit in a dark room was all I wanted.

Learning From Tokyo

If it sounds like complaining, I’m not. Tokyo was quite a sight, like no city I’ve ever experienced. The closest thing I could compare it to is New York on steroids. I was impressed and awed but I highly doubt I could live there. Anna tells me that the quieter suburbs are much less frenetic, and I’m sure this is true, but downtown is intimidating as hell.

I also think there was a lesson in here for me, on not pushing myself too hard. I was more than happy to let my excellent tour guide Anna rush me around to all of the major sights, but that sort of frenetic pace- in Tokyo or anywhere, it just not sustainable. Long term travel like this is a marathon, not a sprint, and I need to remember the importance of pacing myself.

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Tags: blogsherpa, Japan, RTW, tokyo

61 Responses to “Tokyo is Too Much”

Lauren Fritsky
28. Sep, 2010
First off, I’m so glad you’re up and on your journey. It must be amazing to be fulfilling something so long in the planning.
Second, I think it’s great that you know yourself enough to take stock of what you need, what overwhelms you and when you need to chill out. I think that will help keep you grounded on your journey.
Best of luck and life.
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  Thanks Lauren! I’m trying to find the right middle ground for me.
  Reply to this comment
Marsha
28. Sep, 2010
Sounds like although you had an awesome–although overstimulating–time in Tokyo. It’s so easy to get caught up in the excitement of your trip but you’ll find your RTW pace before you know it.
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Michael
28. Sep, 2010
Great photos! I can’t believe how vibrant and colorful Tokyo looks. I’ll have to make it there someday on my travels too
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  Colorful for sure! and bright!
  Reply to this comment
Michael
28. Sep, 2010
Too bad you’re going back for when you take me there….
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  As long as you don’t make me go to any clubs!
  Reply to this comment
Ramblingsaffie
29. Sep, 2010
Sounds crazy, rather like South Korea. Enjoy your time in the quieter parts of Japan
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  Definitely happy to be exploring outside the city!
  Reply to this comment
Abigail
29. Sep, 2010
Amazing to hear your insights .. I agree with the last comment about it being like South Korea .. very bright! … be kind to yourself on the road ….. and late afternoon siestas (say 4pm until 7ish dinner time) became a staple in our day.. just to make sure we could enjoy the rest of all the new ness … look forward to reading about you here aka @cudawudashuda
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  I do LOVE a good afternoon nap!
  Reply to this comment
Philip
29. Sep, 2010
Glad you had an interesting time in Tokyo!
I lived there until recently for 5 years, about 4 years of them in a very quiet, peaceful neighborhood just 7 minutes from Takadanobaba station (about 30 minutes walk from Tokyo’s busiest station, Shinjuku). Everything revolves around the stations, so if you’re just going from station to station, you’ll never see the quiet bits. I recommend going to an area in the Northeast (Nippori is great for quiet walks) and just roaming for at least 5-10 minutes in any direction from the station. You’ll see some of the peaceful beauty that makes up the majority of the huge Tokyo metropolis.
You could also take a hike on Mt. Takao, just a $3 train ride from Shinjuku and still in Tokyo. Or just a little further to Mt. Mitake – one of my favorite places near Tokyo. The colors there are amazing in fall!
Or how about hopping a ferry over to Oshima or Nijima – cool islands that are still part of Tokyo as well.
Tokyo is amazing in its immensity as well as its diversity – from the busiest station and intersection in the world (Shinjuku and Hachiko) to deserted islands that take over 25 hours by boat – but are still part of Tokyo!?
Enjoy Japan!
On the road, I often deeply miss my loving second home. Japan has always been good to me. ^^
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  Thanks! I figured there were quieter parts to be seen. Maybe next time…
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the roamantics
29. Sep, 2010
a wise woman traveler who has been traveling solo just about non-stop since she was 19 (and is now in her late 40′s) recently told us that people don’t realize how much work traveling is and how important it is to give yourself a vacation from your “vacation” during RTW trips. great that you’re permitting yourself to do that!
your itinerary looks awesome and like a really great balance of busier & calmer spots. enjoy & looking forward to reading more
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  a wise woman indeed! It can be really hard work so I’m trying to be nice to myself.
  Reply to this comment
Jayne
29. Sep, 2010
Thanks for such a vibrant description of Tokyo – it sounds both terrifying and amazing – ‘New York on steroids’??!! Have a good rest and then enjoy the rest of your travels
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  Thanks!
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Gray
29. Sep, 2010
I love sensory stimulation when I travel–up to a certain point–but it’s really best served in small doses. Too much, and you’re exhausted. And constant crowds? Definitely make me feel claustrophobic. So I totally understand where you’re coming from here. It helps me understand why sensory-deprivation tanks were invented.
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  yeah I’m such an old lady when it comes to crowds, really dont like being smooshed against people. Rules out taking the subway in Tokyo…
  Reply to this comment
CF
29. Sep, 2010
Just hearing your description stresses me out! Sounds like too much for me too – I think I would prefer the ancient Japan to the crazy neon lights. Love ya! XOXO
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- Steph
  29. Sep, 2010
  Yes definitely enjoying Kyoto a lot more- stories to come!
  Reply to this comment
Aly
29. Sep, 2010
I grew up in Japan but ironically have never been to Tokyo! Airport lounges not counting. So I am very jealous of you
Sounds like you’re seeing a lot in a short time, but take lots of photos as later on when you’re more adjusted you actually will remember more of your first few weeks!! Are you going to Hong Kong, Beijing or Shanghai? Those cities are intense and awesome as well!!
My best advise?? Go find an Onsen while in Kyoto and relax for an afternoon in the hot baths!!
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Emily
29. Sep, 2010
That reminds me of my first experience in NYC, though you’re right, Tokyo sounds like NYC on steroids! That would be totally overwhelming to me, too. I guess people who grow up there are just used to it, but it sounds like sensory overload. Hopefully you can find some smaller towns nearby to visit that are a little more slow-paced!
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- Steph
  30. Sep, 2010
  I can’t imagine growing up in Tokyo, but I guess people must get used to it!
  Reply to this comment
Adam
29. Sep, 2010
“Long term travel like this is a marathon, not a sprint, and I need to remember the importance of pacing myself.”
Just keep remembering that. You simply can’t treat this like a one or two week trip. If you do, you will get burnt out quickly. But it’s so engrained in our minds to do and see as much as possible when traveling, so when you take a day (or two or three) to just do nothing, you get a guilty feeling.
Don’t worry though, it will pass. Travel is now your “job” so to speak, and like any job, you don’t “work” all the time (and if you do, you go crazy). You need that downtime, and you’ll get into a groove sooner rather than later. Just listen to your body and mind, and you’ll be good to go.
Keep having a blast. It sounds amazing, and there are many people (including me) living vicariously through you right now!
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- Steph
  30. Sep, 2010
  Thanks Adam! Good to hear from someone who has been there.
  Reply to this comment
Kelsey
29. Sep, 2010
Sounds a lot like South Korea. And yeah, that’s why I chose a rural position instead of an urban one!
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- Steph
  30. Sep, 2010
  not sure what I’d do. surely there has to be some middle ground!
  Reply to this comment
Jenny
29. Sep, 2010
I think it would be overwhelming for anyone! After being on the road for a few weeks you’ll realize quickly what you like and what you don’t, settling into your own routine of things. For each person it’s different. Great analogy to use a marathon because that’s what it is!
I’m amped up on Asia right now as my next destination so it’s exciting reading about your experience in Toyko!
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- Steph
  30. Sep, 2010
  Yup, I need a routine, definitely. So far asia is pretty neat!
  Reply to this comment
Claire
29. Sep, 2010
Glad to hear you made it safely and congrats on achieving leg 1 of your dream!
This post reminds me of how I felt about Hong Kong.
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- Steph
  30. Sep, 2010
  Thanks, I bet this is true of a lot of big asian cities. busy busy busy!
  Reply to this comment
Unbravegirl
30. Sep, 2010
Totally agree about Tokyo! My first time there, I just hid in my hotel room. I was completely overwhelmed and just wanted to get the heck out! After visiting about a dozen times while I was living in Kobe, I was finally able to actually like Tokyo once I knew my way around & had some friends living in the city… but I’ll still always consider myself a Kansai-girl at heart!
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- Steph
  30. Sep, 2010
  Yeah I’m loving Kansai a lot in comparison to Tokyo- much more laid back!
  Reply to this comment
Briana
30. Sep, 2010
Wow. Right now, I am actually fantasizing Tokyo. Japan is one of my dream travels and I only get to see it in pictures, on TV and on articles like this. My friends wanted to be there last year but due to financial resources we end up climbing mountains. Not a bad idea anyway.
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- Steph
  04. Oct, 2010
  I’m sure you will get there eventually! It’s a pretty crazy place.
  Reply to this comment
Michael Tyson
30. Sep, 2010
I can totally relate to this. Some people thrive on this type of stimulation but I find it draining and luckily my partner’s the same. It’s really not a problem if, as you say, you can find a balance.
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- Steph
  04. Oct, 2010
  Yeah I can take big cities like London where I can find the balance between the crazy and the calm. didn’t have enough time ot seek that out in Tokyo.
  Reply to this comment
DTravelsRound
30. Sep, 2010
When I was traveling, I always made it a point to at least have one day of doing nothing. A lot of the time, it ended up being more than that. But, it helps to keep your sanity. Nothing wrong with taking time to watch TV, upload pics and just SIT.
Tokyo looks absolutely AMAZING!! Great pics. Thanj you for making Tokyo come alive!! Continue to enjoy!! xx
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- Steph
  04. Oct, 2010
  is that one day a week? one day a month? maybe just one day when needed. I’m trying to be good to myself so I don’t burn out fast.
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Nao17
01. Oct, 2010
Welcome to Tokyo!!
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- Steph
  04. Oct, 2010
  Thank you!
  Reply to this comment
Alex
01. Oct, 2010
I’ve always wanted to visit Tokyo, but I don’t at all enjoy large crowds. Based on your experience, I think I would be miserable there.
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- Steph
  04. Oct, 2010
  I’m sure there are some less crowded parts of Tokyo, it’s just a matter of taking the time to seek them out.
  Reply to this comment
Akila
02. Oct, 2010
If you need a break from the big city, head to Nikko for the day. It’s a nice, quiet, peaceful place – very different than hectic Tokyo.
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Theodora
04. Oct, 2010
One thing that really works for us in big cities is not to do too much. It’s nice to find a very small neighbourhood and get to know that: make it your local for the week or so you’re there.
I think you often learn more just mooching round small areas than wellying through the sights, and it’s a hell of a lot more relaxing.
It’s also much closer to how you experience your home city…
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- Steph
  04. Oct, 2010
  Very good advice indeed! Will try to keep it in mind of next time.
  Reply to this comment
Hogga
04. Oct, 2010
I LOVE LOVE Tokyo and the busy busy of the city, but I know what you mean by not being able to live there, or stay for a long period of time. I think I would hide inside too much if I was living there… hermit? yes.
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- Steph
  05. Oct, 2010
  The more I think about it the more I think jetlag/culture shock was a huge factor. I would defintieyl give it another shot!
  Reply to this comment
Federico
06. Oct, 2010
Did you ever get lost in the subway? Some of the stations were so large and crowded that we couldn’t find our way and had to ask for help- the first time I ever have!
Federico
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- Steph
  10. Oct, 2010
  Luckily I was with a local, but man, those stations were intimidating.
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Greg Cox
09. Oct, 2010
Great post and really helpful.
I have just started my RTW trip and have travelled down from Rio (special) to Buenos Aires via the falls (mind-blowing) – it seems in my experience that your first few days anywhere new are always difficult and ‘sensory overload’ is quite common. I know I have suffered from it already.
Japan though, wow. I am due to finish my trip there so this post has helped a lot. In a few days everything will so much more sense again.
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- Steph
  10. Oct, 2010
  Looking back I think a lot of my problems with tokyo were due to jetlag and culture shock. After all, I loved Osaka two weeks later!
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Gray
16. Oct, 2010
We rode the bullet train to Kyoto for a couple of days – just to get a break from the craziness of Tokyo! Still has to be my favourite city though. Asakusa district was a bit more chilled out, and wandering round the Imperial Palace grounds helped get some space (not like the intensity of Shinjuku!!)
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- Steph
  18. Oct, 2010
  Yes, I did visit the Imperial Gardens which was a very nice escape from the hectic-ness
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Harrison
09. Jan, 2011
Oh yea, Tokyo can get really crazy. The overly crowded subways (though I think the best in the world), and the street and building signs as you stated. Even going to the supermarket is crazy with all the colorful and whimsical lettering and packaging of the foods.
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- Steph
  12. Jan, 2011
  the entire time i was there i felt WAY overstimulated!
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Gemma
24. Jan, 2011
I’m glad I got to Tokyo at the end of my stay! That way, I was accustomed to their culture enough to really enjoy it, and look for things I had heard of and wanted to experience. I love looking through your photos, helps me relive my experience!
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- Steph
  31. Jan, 2011
  Yeah, I think i I went now i would do much better than I did way back at the start!
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Tim Wilkinson
14. Apr, 2011
Every time I’ve been to the Metropolitan building the weather has been awful so I’ve never seen Fuji from there either.
If you are in Tokyo again and want an alternative view then try the Mori arts building in Roppongi. It has great views of Tokyo Tower and Tokyo bay area.
Also, if Tokyo is too much then try Kansai instead. Things are more laid back around here, especially in Kobe.
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