The Secrets of Alfama

Posted on 22. Apr, 2010 by Steph in Destinations, Europe, Guest posts

Today’s guest poster, Fiona Hillard, talks about a city I’ve never been to but would love to visit: Lisbon.

My abiding images of Lisbon will always be vertigo-inducing hills, paper-thin custard pastries and the twinkling lights of the 25 de Abril Bridge. But it’s unassuming Alfama that lies at the heart of this enchanted, fairytale city.

If Lisbon is the storybook’s setting, then Alfama is an unlikely heroine. She is old and rundown.  Her beauty is fast fading through flaking paintwork and cracked wall tiles. She is a little bit sad and downcast, but somehow still strangely magnetic. The reason? Easy. Alfama’s got what even award-winning architects and town planners can’t muster, that’s personality.

Maybe it has something to do with the change of altitude, but as soon as you get up to the heights of Lisbon’s oldest district, it’s like suddenly, you’re an awe-struck Alice.  You’ve found yourself in Wonderland, in a labyrinth of twisting cobbled streets, mountainous stairwells and spectacular seascapes.
You want to investigate everything – climb to the top of those never-ending steps, sample the view from the turrets of the castle, sneak inside that long forgotten vinyl record store.

In Alfama the ordinary not only becomes extraordinary, but captivatingly so. Washing lines leaden with bed sheets double as billowing theatrical curtains that shift back and forth to offer you stolen glimpses of exotic birds imprisoned in balcony cages. Pink blotchy paintwork could easily be the masterstrokes of Claude Monet. Skinny stray cats become long lost friends. If you listen close enough, you can almost hear the mournful tones of the Fado singer pining after her vanished sailor.

So you get the picture – Alfama is full of surprises, but the weirdest of all is yet to come. Brace yourself – it’s a circus academy and it’s hidden deep within the narrow cobbled laneways.  There’s no stripy big top or whirly fanfare music leading you to its whereabouts, it’s all contained behind a mysterious wooden door on a street called Costo do Castelo.  Now, listen up, this is all very hush hush information. To get to Chapito (that’s the name of the school), you follow the crowds swarming towards the gate of the castle and once inside, you take a left and then take the first right.  Continue on down along this road until you see a whitewashed building with banners featuring circus acts hanging down from it.  The building was originally constructed in the 17^th century for use as a prison. Happily, in the not so distant past, a culture minister with a soft spot for clowns persuaded the government to turn the former jail into state funded school for circus performers.

The entrance is so modest that you can easily walk by it…it’s a tiny gateway that’s been sunken into the wall. Opening the gate is something of a ‘secret garden’ experience.  As you descend the steps, you’ll bear witness to a spectacular view over Alfama right across the river Tejo. If you’re visiting in the evening, all I can say is the sunset is magical. Trailing down the stone stairwell are fairy-lit stalls selling funky one-off beaded jewellery and handmade craft pieces. There’s even a jazz bar inside.  Chapito’s popularity encompasses all ages from students to older travellers, actors to musicians and media types. There’s a definite feeling of cool creativity about the place so don’t be surprised if you find you have to drag yourself away at 6am to get some shut-eye.

Chapito:

Costa do Castelo, nº 1 / 7
1149-079 Lisboa
Portugal

Fiona Hilliard writes for the Glove Box Blog for ArgusCarHire.com.  Recently she took a break from writing about renting a car in Faro and took a trip to the Portuguese capital, Lisbon.

Tags: blogsherpa, Europe, guest post, lisbon, portugal